Tuesday, March 25, 2008

A Break at Big Milly's

Our first stop (other than the border town) was a very famous and popular backpacker resort, right on the beach, called Big Milly's Backyard, in Kokrobite. We hadn't seen foreign tourists since leaving Senegal nearly two months before so everyone was excited about getting to relax and socialize. In other words, Sky, Bre and Savannah were finally let off the leash and allowed to play.
I'd say 80% of the foreigners in Ghana are volunteers (it's the volunteer Olympics) and a lot of them take a break or relax at Big Milly's before flying home. Kokrobite is an hour ride from Accra so we were able to use it as a base and commute into town to take care of business. The passports that mom and I started the whole trip with are now completely full so we have applied for new ones (and Bre too), trapping ourselves in Ghana for at least 3 weeks. That gives us a good excuse and plenty of time to relax a little and we took full advantage (9 days). We met some great people, got thrashed trying to body surf some big waves, ate western food for the first time in months, stayed up way too late (much later than the usual 8-9pm), and generally enjoyed ourselves. It is also a great place to get info on my future plans so I am feeling a bit more confident and ready for the next leg.
Sky ended up getting sick with suspected malaria (not unusual out here) and has been off and on for a while since. I did most of the runs into Accra and can honestly say I don't like it. It is another sprawling mess and has a larger population than all the other West African cities we've been to (other than Abidjan). The traffic and pollution are horrendous and it takes a long time to run errands and get around. It's too far to walk and too slow to have to take the public minibuses around. The streams are also full of garbage and incredibly stinky. At least things are relatively cheap. It's funny but again now that we are somewhere with lots of tourists, everyone is constantly warning us about thieves, more so than most other places. It doesn't feel worse but mass tourism tend to bring out the worst in opportunistic thievery I guess. We haven't had any problems but then the locals do have a slightly different way of treating us here. I call it false hospitality because it is only skin deep. Of course that is more a product of the false people following you around and hassling you rather than a general trend. There just seem to be more touts and those annoying Rasta guys (rolling eyes) here hanging out. It was nice to finally get a break and run around in just swimming shorts all day on the beach again. Now I am a proper beach bum like you all suspect :)


At 8:24 AM , Anonymous Anonymous said...

What do you mean suspect? Your have the worst case of travelers itch combined with a need to get somewhere to relax and catch the rays, I've ever seen. So Ammon, when you take your shirt off do the UN Care workers try to give you care packages? (VBG)
Hey with Sky gone you're back to being the enforcer, better get to the pushups and training.

Cheers for now.
Bear Hugs to all
The Bear


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